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Get to know Brazil’s cherno foods

São Paulo is known for its rich gastronomic culture. In a city with influences from everywhere—from Africa and Japan to Italy and the Middle East, just to name a few—it is difficult to find a bad meal. But certain parts of the city are also known for their obsession for “gourmetization,” a pretentious and over-reaching effort to make even the most simple foods into something “gourmet.” More often than not, these attempts are utter failures.