How America’s most controversial legacy became a Brazilian festival

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A dirt road, surrounded by crops, under an unforgiving sun. A hot and heavy wind, carrying dust, indicates that the day will be scorching. This setting would be at home in a Wild West movie, but this is no tale of sheriffs and outlaws. This is about long journeys, connections and, above all, narratives, and their endless versions.

At the end of the dusty road, in the town of Santa Bárbara d’Oeste in the São Paulo countryside, there is a place filled with history itself. The Cemitério do Campo—or “American Cemetery” as it is known to...

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